What is it?
Ammonium carbonates are a group of ammonium salts, mainly ammonium bicarbonate, made by bubbling carbon dioxide and ammonia through water. It is a white powder with a faint smell of ammonia. Its old names are baker's ammonia and hartshorn salt, because it was once made from deer antler.
What does it do?
Above about 60 degrees Celsius it breaks down into three gases: ammonia, carbon dioxide and water vapour. All three escape from the dough as it bakes, leaving nothing behind. The gas makes bubbles that set as the biscuit cooks, giving a light, open texture. Unlike baking powder it leaves no salty or sour taste. It is only used in thin, dry bakes, where all the ammonia can escape.
Where you will see it
Dry biscuits, crackers, cream crackers, rich tea biscuits, gingerbread, amaretti, speculoos, and some traditional flatbreads and wafers. It is not used in cakes or loaves, because the ammonia cannot escape from a thick bake and leaves an off taste. UK labels call it ammonium carbonates, ammonium bicarbonate, raising agent (E503) or raising agent (503).